A visit to the Red Square

MOSCOW, JUNE 2002 - Some places you have seen hundreds of times on television, have seen so many pictures of them in books, and you know all about the details of the buildings and history.  But still, one day, if you really visit these places, it does something to you.  Some feeling that it is not like you thought it would be, or just the effect of realizing you are actually standing in a very famous place.  And afterward, back at home, when you see these places many times again on television, it is never the same as before.  Because now you think ‘I have walked on that particular pavement, I have crossed this road, I have seen the inside of that church, etc…’. 

The Red Square is one of these places.

I arrived in the late evening, and the first view of the Red Square was sunset from the top of the ‘Rossia’ Hotel – a spectacular sight.  In the evening, I made a walk on the Red Square.  The evening light created a special atmosphere.  My first impression was that the square is in fact not that big… much smaller than I had expected.  Maybe it is because I came from Beijing just a couple of weeks before, and was comparing with the really huge ‘Tien An Men’ ? Also Lenin’s mausoleum looked actually much smaller than the pictures I remembered from sovjet times, when the sovjet leaders were standing on top of it, saluting the military parades…

Lenin’s Mausoleum

Red Square and Lenin Mausoleum

One of the following days I visited Lenin’s mausoleum.  There is actually not much too see inside, and it all looks quite ‘unreal’ to me, but still every day there is a line of visitors. It just one of the things to do when in Moscow… Regulations are very strict.  You cannot take your camera or any drinks or food inside, you have to take off your hat before entering, and you have to respect absolute silence !  I was not very serious about this last rule… As soon as you walk inside the mausoleum,  you have to descend some stairs, which are almost unlit.  As your eyes do not have the time to adapt to the darkness, you just have to shuffle to find the stairs, and I even didn’t see the Russian security men standing on the sides, but I knew quickly enough they were there, because when I said to my friends “It is dark in here, I cannot see…” , they reminded me promptly about the “complete silence” rule !
An interesting part of this visit is also the graves of the other communist party members and former sovjet leaders, which are buried in the space between the mausoleum and the Kremlin walls.

The Kremlin

Many Russian cities have a Kremlin, but the one in Moscow is always referred to as “The Kremlin”.  In present times, inside the Kremlin walls, you find a mixture of past and present.  The tsarist legacy such as the Armoury, the different cathedrals, Ivan’s clocktower, the big cannon,… but also the current government buildings and the residence of president Putin.
One rule that our guide made clear quickly, is that it is forbidden to walk anywhere but on the pavement !  If you get off the pavement, security officers use their whistles… and they have to use them a lot since not all tourists know or respect this rule.  Also when you stand too long in one place, especially when looking in their direction, they also tell you to move on.  Only privileged vehicles and officials have the right to use the roads.  Here you can see the black Russian limousines you recognise from every movie…but no photos allowed.

Inside the Kremlin, stay on the pavement ! Inside the Kremlin

Also no photos allowed inside the cathedrals or in the armoury (or only after paying a photo allowance fee).  The armoury is a museum now and contains actually not a lot of armour, but ‘everything tsarist’ can be found here, ranging from tsarina dresses and jewelry to horse carriages, Faberge Eggs and (very expensive) tea cups.
The cathedrals are also all museums and have a very interesting collection of icons and also some graves can be seen in here.

Official residence of president Putin

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Norway, land of the fjords

HELLESYLT, AUGUST 1994 A trip to Norway means above all travelling through one of the most spectacular nature areas of Europe : lakes, waterfalls, mountains, white-water rivers, glaciers, … and the fjords.  Everything is great over there, but you surely need some collaboration of the weather gods. Before we reached Hellesylt, the weather had been extremely good, exceptional for Norway even.  But in Hellesylt we ran out of luck and had some typical rainy Norwegian days.  But even in those conditions a boat trip on the famous Geiranger fjords remains a unique experience.

Before we came to Hellesylt, we had visited the Dalsnibba, a mountain peak from where you can see the Geiranger fjord deep down below.  The ascent (and descent for that matter) of the Dalsnibba was already an experience – the road is not paved, quite narrow for a tour bus, and crawls up the mountain peak, bend after bend… On the top it was quite windy and rather cold, but the view is unbelievable…

Geiranger as seen from Dalsnibba

In Hellesylt, a small and quiet village, we stayed in a youth hostel, a former school building.  After diner (some very big cooked potatoes , and a quarter of a cabbage – this hostel was seemingly not the most ‘gourmet’ place of Norway…), we were having a drink and a chat – as we were with quite a big group, we had many bottles with us as each one of us has brought some bottle from home (alcoholic drinks are extremely expensive in Norway).  Locals were quite surprised when we opened our own bar in the evening…! It’s a good way to meet Norwegian people however, they will surely not refuse if you offer them a drink (earlier on our trip some locals offered us high prices for some of our bottles).  From the balcony you could see the fjords already, but it was misty and rainy.  Later that evening we went for a walk ‘into town’, being almost alone in the streets,  and watched some women’s soccer (which is very popular in Norway, far more than in the rest of Europe).

Bridalfall (see the bottle ?) The seven sisters

The next day we took the boat trip from Hellesylt to Geiranger.  This was the big fjord sightseeing day !  Regarding the weather, you could decide to stay inside the boat, but the atmosphere on the deck was far better – the wind, the rain, the cold, the sound of the raging waterfalls … the real fjord experience !  This fjord is world famous for some beautifull waterfalls, with poetic names like ‘the bridalfall’ and ‘the seven sisters’… The rain and wind simply added an extra dimension to them.  Although we have seen many other fjords on this trip, the impression of this one will always stay my favorite. The beauty of the falls and the never-ending sights of stunning, picturesque nature of Geiranger take you away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The calming effect it has makes you feel as though you have left your home to be taken care of by Busy Bee Cleaning Services, because you have no worry while here. While the cleaning service clears unwanted mess, the natural beauty clears your head of nonsense. The peaceful wave it brings is like a cleaning service for your mind leaving you with a clear and happy head.

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Spring break in Amsterdam

AMSTERDAM, MARCH 2002 - You probably know this feeling – you want to go away but do not have the time nor the opportunity.  So what can you do ? …seek for some change in the close neighbourhood.  I went to Amsterdam, which is only a couple of hours by train from my home.  So close, but yet so different – one of the strong points of Europe.
After waking up at an impossible hour, probably after having woken up the neighbours too, I was on the road for the the first leg of this train travel, about one hour to Antwerp. Before I met my friends in the station, I had time for some breakfast, and watched the people passing by so early in the morning on a saturday. 

We all got together on the platform and within minutes we were on our way to Amsterdam.  The train had Dutch carriages and a Belgian locomotive.  Some stops later the train already got crowded with Dutch people, which could be easily derived from the Dutch accent in their conversations – to them we speak ‘as funny’ as they do, but anyway we had our little laughs – and I already felt a little bit like a traveller.

Bicycles and the canals
Soon we arrived in the beautiful station of Amsterdam and as we walked out and into the center of the city, the first thing that struck me was the abundance of bicycles.  What a difference compared to most of Belgian cities!  One really has to watch out constantly, because unlike in e.g. Asian countries where they just move along with the crowd, they really get up to speed over here.  A lot of people use their bicycle to go to work, do shopping, etc… – later on we saw quite a few people on the bike carrying hockey sticks (a popular sport in the Netherlands).  The city of Amsterdam has been adapted to the bicycles, and riding a car is not easy over here.  

First remarkable fact about Amsterdam : bicycles rule.  You don’t have to walk far into the city before coming in close contact with the famous ‘canals’.  Along the sides of them are the even more famous Dutch houses that originate from the 16th to 18th century.  And also another thing to watch out for : the little poles along the side of the pavement, the ‘Amsterdammertjes’.  Be carefull not to bump into one when you are gazing at the old housing.  Onto the canals, not only little boats for tourists, but these waterways are really used for transportation too.  And some people actually live on the canals, in the houseboats.  Some of these don’t look like boats anymore but are just floating concrete structures with wooden houses built on top of them.  Soon after WW II people started to live on boats due to lack of other housing.  During the sixties and seventies, flower power made it an ‘in vogue’ thing to do.   Second remarkable fact : people live on the water over here.

Amsterdam Canals Amsterdam Houseboats
More contrasts of Amsterdam became soon apparent.  Amsterdam has old ‘typical Dutch’ drawbridges, a couple of interesting churches and a beautiful 16th century beguinage; you can visit typical ‘poor man housing’ built around an inner courtyard, and admire the wonderfull art of Rembrandt and Van Gogh in the museum.  You can watch jugglers practice in ‘Vondelpark’, and see streets artists performing on the ‘Dam’ square.  But at the same time, also body piercings and tattoos can be seen everywhere, and ‘coffee shops’ will legally sell you some hash or marijuana.  Not to forget the world famous red lights district, where prostitutes can work next to the church… Amsterdam, the city where everything is possible. 
Amsterdam beguinage
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History in Dresden

DRESDEN, JUNE 2000 - Dresden is a historically important city in the Eastern part of Germany.  Before the reunification of Germany, this city was in the communist DDR.  Still on present days remains from those days are visible.  The tourist industry is not heavely developed yet, which gives a visit to a city of this size still a more or less rural character.  We stayed in a guesthouse just out of the centre, a former farm with typical East-German decorative elements, a very quiet place.  Dresden has suffered a lot from bombings during WW II.  Almost every historical building is now reconstructed, an operation that goes on at present.  Sometimes ‘modern’ elements have been added in this process.

 

Dresden skyline

The big attraction of Dresden are of course the historical buidings that are everywhere in the city.  Dresden is a city where you can walk endlessly from one cathedral to the next palace, and into museums.  The cultural beauty makes it a city with a remarkable pretty skyline.  Giving an overview of all buidings is simply to elaborate, but to my personal memory, some buidings deserve a special mention : the Church of the Holy Cross (Kreuz Kirche) , the Opera Theatre and the Japanese Palace. You can also visit some interesting parks and walk along the river, and when it’s hot, you can visit the ‘bier gartens’ and relax for a while.  And there are some nice restaurants where you can enjoy some typical german cuisine in a local atmosphere.

Opera Theatre trabant 'oldtimer' car
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Pisa

PISA, APRIL 2005, SEPTEMBER 2011 -  The tower of Pisa is maybe one of the best known landmarks in Europe or even in the world, but there is more to it than just the tower – which is by the way still worthwhile and unique, not because of the way it stands, but because it is an architectural perfect round tower with I don’t remember how many pillars… It is also the place where Galileo Galilei did his experiments about gravity.When you think about Italy, it’s about churches, palaces, art…and a sense of religion and mysticism is never far away.
Pisa tower and cathedral Tower of Pisa

All the clichés and souvenir stalls, and the crowds aside, this tower still is impressive and really stands in a dangerously inclining position.  After the tower has been closed to the public for a long time, it is now open again, but only for a restricted number of people at the same time and for a “good price” – the ticket went up to 15 EUR per person, high enough to preserve the tower from too many tourists.

The most interesting to visit on the “miracoli square” however is the cathedral.  Outside and inside are stunningly beautiful and the atmoshere is not fake – this is not just a museum.  When I was visiting, a couple was getting married. The baptism chapel is the biggest of its kind in the world.  The round chapel looks just splendid like the cathedral from the outside, on the inside it is rather simple and empty – but I guess that’s just the point.

Chapel of the holy needle sgraffiti

When in Pisa, do not forget to take stroll along the Arno river, visit the surrounding churches, chapels and discover interesting little squares in the city center.  Absolutely fabulous to me is the chapel of the holy needle - there is nothing much inside, but on a clear day the contrast of the sharp white details against the blue sky is fantastic.  Another piazza we encountered had great buildings with sgraffiti, a technique to make great detailed paintings on the outside of the building.

Some final thoughts. Eating a pizza in Pisa is a must, the many restaurants in the city offer a good variety of the local cuisine, enjoy it !  You should pair this with some Italian wine for a truly authentic experience.  And beware of the numerous students on ‘vespa’ – they often drive not so slow in the narrow streets, and they always think they have the right of way …

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Lucca

LUCCA, APRIL 2005 - Arriving in Lucca is quite exciting. After a hour or so drive by bus from the Pisa ‘Galilei International’ airport, through an amazing and relaxing landscape, you encounter a well preserved medieval  town, with the many towers like beacons for the traveler – it used to be the other way around, these towers were build by the rich Italien families, not only to show off their wealth, but as watch towers to observe enemies.
Medieval walls around the city
Romantic city views

Observing the town is done by many now.  A good way to avoid the crowds is to make use of the acient fortified walls which encircle the town and from which you have a great view towards the city and towards the mountains and scenery outside of the city.  It is such a tranquil way to explore, and you can get off the walls at many points, to visit a cathedral our tower or just a nice street with flowering trees.  And after your visit, continue your stroll up on the walls.  Traveling like an observer from a distance, but not missing anything !

And not forget walk here in the evening and see the many romantic sights.

Standing above the crowds... in the shadow amphiteatro

Another great way to see the town is to climb the hundreds of stairs of one of the towers that are open to the public, and enjoy the fresh air and stand above the crowds.  Needless to say that the views are absolutely fantastic and unforgettable.  The Guinici tower has even oak trees on top of it, a quite unique feature that allows you to see it all while standing in the shade… Standing here is a great way to see all of the churches, towers, town squares, palazzi and the famous amphiteatre.

Of course, do not forget to visit all of the churches from the inside, the art work is fabulous like anywhere in Italy, some churches have relics and even some mummified saints on display ! And in the evening, do not forget a visit to some romantic restaurant, or an even more romantic visit to an opera or concert of Puccini.

You will come back to Italy.  I certainly will.

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Normandy

NORMANDY, JULY 1991 / MAY 2004  Answer me quick – “what is the first thing you think about when I mention Normandy ? ” … right : world war II, D-Day, Utah and Omaha beach … 

A history that is maybe lesser known is that Normandy got its name from the Vikings (mainly Danish and Norwegian) that conquered this land in the 9th and 10th century.  

But this story is not about war,  it is about good living in France and about the beauty of nature. 

 

It has been quite a while since I visited the Atlantic coast in Normandy and the different cities and villages, but while I am writing this story, the images of the walks into the fantastic landscapes are still vivid in my mind.  In the countryside, a hilly terain awaits you – ideal for a couple of days hiking with friends, in the midst of beautiful nature. This countryside is also known for its apple trees – after a nice day of hiking, a good Calvados brandy in the evening … this must be France !

Etretat coastline
Honfleur - harbor

The most impressive to me is still the Atlantic coast with the white cliffs, like in Etretat and Fécamp – the secluded beaches with little crabs crawling back to the sea, the smell of the sea, the fresh wind and the sound of many seabirds.  The whole route along the coastline is just incredible scenic.  Along the coast, there are little pitoresque harbors, like in Honfleur – of course the restaurants over here offer a good choice of delicious seafood.

But also cultural activities must not be overlooked – in cities like Rouen with such a big history, you can visit cathedrals, bridges, monuments and museums – from the Vikings to the Middle ages and the history of Joan of Arc – it’s all there for you to discover it again.

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Bordeaux

BORDEAUX, MAY 2003 - The name appears on millions of bottles of wine, one would almost forget it is also the name of a town in France.  The place is crowded with cathedrals, statues and other monuments that remind you of its great history and cultural importance.  The city became rich some centuries ago thanks to the two rivers ‘Garonne’ and ‘Gironde’, as overseas ships from many continents used the port for trading.  Nowadays the port has lost its importance, but the name of Bordeaux did not lost its prestige, thanks to the sweet gold… wine ! 
Vineyeards everywhere !
Chateaux - also everywhere.

A visit to the vineyards is a pleasure in many ways.  The landscapes are just fantastic – this countryside is ideal for a bicycle trip - it is great way to explore the little villages, meet the locals, experience the ‘couleur locale’…
The landscapes are dotted with castles (chateaux) , which makes the experience sometimes like being in a fairy tale.  A lot of these ‘chateaux’ can be visited, often a guided tour with explanation about the wine making process and wine tasting is offered – this is really the good life ! A little word of warning however : it can become hot , very hot, and when with a bicycle, one better not exagerate wine tasting along the way…

Real caves, full of wine bottles...
... and barrels !

But don’t worry , the good life can be continued when one comes back in the evening and can enjoy the richness of the French cuisine.  Oysters, ‘Foie gras’, different ‘Patés’, of course with the appropriate choice of Bordeaux wine…it is difficult to make a choice from the menu here and did I mention the deserts yet ?  Many nice restaurants, often at great locations with a nice atmosphere.  And dfter dinner a nice stroll in town, watch the sun set, and then a nightcap in  the hotel – good life can be simple !

Bordeaux, a place to remember and return to !

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Winter Landscapes

FLANDERS, 1989 - I love snow.  The more, the better.  Maybe it is because I’m born in a winter with loads of snow, or just because people tend to love the things that are rare.  And for the last decade, snow has become really rare over here.  Usually we get each year about one week a bit of snow, somewhere in december or january.  As I’m writing this in december 2001, there’s no snow outside my window, but I remember times when there was a lot of it. 

One of these times was in winter 1989.  I very well remember walking and gliding on the frozen pools, the same ones that were used by sportsfishermen  in summer.  I have to laugh again when I think back about the snowfights with friends, and about the snowman we made together with the little children.  Now that was what I call a winter !

Wintertime fun

FLANDERS, 2001 - My call for snow has been heard by the weather gods ! I’m happy to be able to show new pictures of this years winter, which was amazingly beautifully covered in snow and ice.  Following pictures do not need a lot of comments.  They were taken in the woods close to my home.

'Poekebeek' covered with ice
snow covered trees in park of Poeke

Also a nearby frozen pool attracted a lot of ice skaters. This next picture was taken after the crowds – and the snow – were gone.

Kraenepoel covered with ice

EUPEN, 1998 - In the highest regions of our country, there is obviously more snow each year… if it snows at all.  When the first snow comes – as is the case at the time of writing (12/2001) – everyone gets crazy and wants to go to the Ardennes.  The roads are slippery and chaotic situations are to be seen.  Most people go over there to do some cross-country skiing or even alpine skiing (on some rare occasions).  I am one of these crazy people.  But I mainly go hiking to experience the beautiful landscapes and the solitude and silence of the snow landscape. The town of Eupen is located near the German border.

Lake of Eupen in Winter The forest in winter
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Belgian forests in Autumn

THE ARDENNES, NOVEMBER 2001 - Hiking in the Belgian Ardennes, the southern part of Belgium with some hilly terain and a lot of forests :  it’s one of my favorite weekend activities, and it can be a bit adventurous too !  This story will show you some of the autumn beauty of the forest.

After a two and a half hours drive I arrived in the little quiet village.  It was clouded and it had been raining a little.

I had a few hours to spend before the sun would set behind the hills.  I decided to do a little discovery walk, up to some medieval fortress ruins.  The ruins were deserted as I arrived there.  The (new) bridge that replaced the one once used by the knights, was wet and slippery.  I went further towards the outlook point – the view was good and as I sat there for some 10 minutes. The sun managed to break through the clouds – this could be the beginning of a good weather weekend ! I went down again and continued my walk following a rocky hill ridge and along the river. It was time to go for diner and sample some of the local delicacies.

The next day, mist was hanging in the valley.  After breakfast, as I put on my hiking boots, sunshine already welcomed me, and I was in the mood for some serious hiking now.  I went through the forests to some nearby lake, about 10 kilometers away.  In this season, there is quite a lot of hunting in this area, and the hunting dates are always marked at the main entrance paths to the forest.  I was happy to read that there was no hunting that day, so nothing could spoil my plan anymore.  Around noon, after having struggled with loads of mud on the paths, I arrived at the lake with a castle and a scientific station nearby.  The surroundings of this lake are a nature preservation area, so it was off limits to hikers – but the views were good.  I continued my walk after my lunch towards the Semois river, to reach a little dam that was previously used by the monks (I later went to the acient monastery, it’s a very luxury hotel now).  Although I had been to this place before, I never hiked there in autumn with forests full of leaves that cover all the paths and dim light.  I got a little lost, that is, I had to walk back further than expected, which resulted in difficulties reading my map during the last half an hour of my hike.  As I reached the village again, I saw some local people in full camouflage outfit, going into the now almost dark forest – hunters or nature watchers ?

Autumn Forest Lake in the Ardennes

The next couple of days, I made some other hikes, and the weather just was splendid.  I could fully admire the whole range of autumn colours.  At one point, I was walking on a little road through the forest, and a car approached me – one of the only cars I had seen till now.  Two people came out of the car, talked quietly and pointed at some trees…  Soon I also saw a herd of animals ! At first the seemed to be deer, but as I looked with the binoculars, it was clear this were mouflons. (These animals are originally imported from Corsica, look here for a little description). There were like ten animals, just grazing between the trees.  I had been hiking a lot in the forests before, but this was some unique experience !

Sunshine in the forest ! autumn colours

On the next day I could not hike a lot, because the village was being invaded by hunters… They had a lot of jeeps and carriages with dogs and were all dressed like going to war… They made a lot of noise.  There were “no trespassing” signs everywhere, hiking was not an option today.

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